Japanese Hair Straightening and Smoothing

Permanently Straight Hairstyles by Thermal Reconditioning

Jul 10, 2009 Amy Andersen

A hair system that originated in Japan, utilizes heat, chemicals, and flat ironing to re-texture curly, frizzy hair bonds. The end result is permanent pin-straight hair.

Japanese hair straightening quickly became popular once hairstyle photos were shown of frizzy or coarse unruly locks miraculously turned smooth. The smooth closed hair shaft reflects light, giving hair an appearance of silk like gloss. This is the end goal, along with stick-straight yet flexible hair, of the procedure. Unlike the Brazilian keratin treatment, this procedure is permanent. Only new hair growth will need to be treated.

Japanese Hair Treatment (TR) Process

Previous hair relaxers utilized a salt or calcium based hydroxide or lye based with a higher pH. The chemical ammonium thioglycolate is used in this treatment. The process takes several hours. Below is only a basic summary.

The hair is washed with a pretreatment clarifying sodium free shampoo.
The hair is rinsed.
A solution is applied to dry hair in small sections throughout the head. The solution is kept off the scalp.
This is rinsed out.
The hair is blown dry smooth. Each section is laboriously flat ironed several times with a high heat flat iron. It is this heat aspect that insures stick straight hair. A cold smoothing treatment will not produce the same effect although it will create a smooth hairstyle.
This can be a lengthy procedure depending on whether it is a short hairstyle or long hair grown out for a wedding.
Another solution may be applied and rinsed and flat ironing repeated. The hair remains untouched for the next 3 days.

Types of Thermal Reconditioning or Ionic Rebonding Hair Straightener

Yuko: This was the original Japanese straightener and primarily for virgin untreated hair. It is a single preparation. It is not recommended for African ethnic hair or any hair previously treated with a lye- or thio-based substance.
Liscio: This was the next developed treatment higher on the chain of chemical ionic bond restructuring. It can be used on chemically treated hair and has several formulations to tweak it toward the proper hair usage. It was developed in 1996 and used more commonly today than Yuko.

Additional treatments go under the names of Alracial, Shiseido, and Paimore. They are brand names for the same process.

Side Effects of Chemically Straightened, Flat-Ironed Smoothed Hair

The praise and complaints are bountiful. Much depends on the expectations of the individual and the patience and skill of the technician.

Miss a few hairs during treatment and they will stand out frizzed from the rest; sleep on the hair in the immediate after period and it will wave. Ends break off at the hair shaft and the tips.
The shiny initial results may fade with time or sun exposure.
The hair may be so straight it may stand out stiff like a brush instead of bending over a shoulder.
It may fall flat against the head.
It will not curl – ever.
Some people state their hair is drier with time.
Some claim their hair is thinner (although this may be an illusion since the hair is flatter and smoother)
Others claim hair is falling out in clumps. (Hair always falls out as part of its natural process. It may be more visible with a "helmet head" rather than a "bush head")
This becomes an expensive ongoing process of treating new hair every 6 months. A day spent in the salon and several days of not washing the hair is a lot of wasted precious time for some people.
Ask if it is appropriate if pregnant.

Inevitably, the Hair is Damaged

The hair structure is changed, chemicals are applied. This is damage to the hair as is any chemical treatment. The extent of “damage” can be minimal and the results fantastic. Knowing what one risks and what one hopes to gain yields the best results.

How to Find a Thermal Reconditioning Stylist

Ask others who have had the process.
Ask for photos of real before and after hair care clients
Have a consultation in 2 different salons. If 2 different opinions are received, don’t simply go with the desired response but try a 3rd salon and follow the consultation majority view. This treatment is not for all types of hair.
Read online comments
Look in larger metropolitan areas for experienced salons.
Ask for referrals.

The copyright of the article Japanese Hair Straightening and Smoothing in Hair Care is owned by Amy Andersen. Permission to republish Japanese Hair Straightening and Smoothing in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.