Demi, Semi, Permanent Hair Colour
Differences Between These Types of Hair Colouring & When to Use Them
What is the difference? What kind of hair are they used on? A basic guide to understanding the types of hair colour found in professional salons.
New hair colour clients don't always understand colour theory or how hair colour works on the hair, so often clients don't know how to communicate what they're looking for or what they want to avoid in hair colour. Conversely, stylists don't always ask hair clients what they know about colour so sometimes assumptions are made.
To avoid frustration and disappointment, here is a basic guide to understanding the difference between the major types of hair colour used in salons across the globe.
“The basic difference is the level of penetration of color into the hair shaft,” describes Berry Bachen, technical director of the Tigi Academy in New York City.
Semi-Permanent Hair Colour
- can be recognized by stylists applying colour directly from the bottle onto the hair
- contains no ammonia
- is not mixed with a developer such as peroxide, so colour is deposited on the outside of the hair
- the hair cuticle is not lifted (because no developer is used) so there is no lifting of existing colour
- lasts four to six shampoos
- used for tonal changes, adding shine, or for temporary fashion colours like fuschia or royal blue
- example: Sebastian Colourshines
Demi-Permanent Hair Colour
- contains no ammonia
- is mixed with an activator, such as peroxide
- activator lifts cuticle slightly so colour sits in and under the cuticle
- lasts 18 to 20 shampoos
- fades gradually and then washes out to the original colour of the hair
- used for toning, changing tone, filling in highlights, and going darker
- good way to temporarily change hair colour to try something new
- also recommended to colour hair that is already significantly damaged or over processed
- example: PM Shines by Paul Mitchell
Permanent Hair Colour
- usually contains some amount of ammonia
- is mixed with an activator (developer)
- activator fully lifts the cuticle of the hair and removes natural pigment, even when going from light hair to dark hair
- while cuticle is lifted permanent colour is deposited under the cuticle and inside the cortex of the hair shaft
- after the colour is activated, the cuticle closes and the colour stays inside which gives the hair its new colour
- permanent colour is essential in going lighter, covering grey and intensifying toneasts permanently but will start to fade anywhere from 3-8 weeks
- permanent colour is usually maintained with either more permanent colour over top, or a demi to refresh the colour with less processing
- example: Wella Koleston Perfect
Knowing the options in hair colour will help salon clients choose the right type for their wants and needs. Understanding what is available at the salon will ensure the client and stylist are speaking the same language when discussing colour choices.
