Many frizzy-haired ladies are pleased with the semi-permanent results achieved with the Brazilian keratin treatment. In fact they are so pleased, they wish it would last forever. It does, but as a somewhat different procedure: a cold smoothing treatment.
American Straightening Treatment or Opti-Smooth
The procedure can be considered an offshoot of thermal reconditioning (Japanese hair straightening). It is a non-thermal “cold” treatment. Thermal restructuring is a several hour-long expensive procedure utilizing a chemical process and heat to produce stick straight smooth hair. It is best done on “virgin” untreated hair. In contrast, the cold smoothing treatment takes half the time, costs significantly less, and uses some of the same product sans heat to create a relaxed frizz free head of hair.
The hair is smooth but not stick-straight, softer, with a curl or wave. Both technologies break down the hair bonds, reconditioning them into a new format by ionic processes.
Cold Smoothing Procedure Overview
The approximately two-hour treatment includes pre-shampoo with a clarifying wash. The hair is coated with a smoothing chemical (similar to one used with the high heat process) that sits on the hair for about 20 minutes. It is then washed and a conditioning neutralizer is applied and rinsed out. Post cream is applied and the hair is dried. The procedure finishes with a few strokes of a flat iron to affix the cream to the hair shaft.
The hair is not washed for approximately three days and then only with a sulfite-free shampoo and conditioner. It is smooth with body, including wave or curl, depending on the type of original hair. The hair has body.
The hair can be styled or flat ironed for occasions. New hair growth will need follow up treatment.
How Long Do Hair Results Last?
The results are permanent. Treated hair of the cold smoothing treatment, like that of Japanese ionic thermal reconditioning, is permanently changed. Unlike keratin smoothing treatments which gradually return to the pre-treated original condition, opti-smoothing treated hair remains so for the life of the hair.
As with any hair treatment, new hair growth will need to be treated to maintain the effect. The treatment on only the new hair may be needed in 6-8 months, depending on the rate of re-growth. Re-growth treatments tend to be less expensive than the initial procedure since less hair is affected.
Contraindications for the Cold Smoothing Process
- Hair re-processed with sodium hydroxide, guanidine carbonate, or potassium hydroxide.
- Hair with more than 40% highlights.
- Hair colored with 30% volume oxidant or higher
- Henna treated hair
Cold Smoothing Process Considerations
- Recently colored hair will lose some color but can be dyed the same day as the procedure.
- If unable to or unwilling to do touch ups, getting through the re-growth phase may be awkward.
- Extremely coarse hair may not achieve the soft curl look desired.
- Results may be operator dependent to some extent. Chose a technician who has some experience doing this procedure or a similar one.
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